Vincent Karaca
Founder & Master Installer
Best Flooring for Dogs and Cats: An Installer's Honest Guide

Why Pet Owners Need Different Flooring (Not What You Think)
Most articles about pet-friendly flooring start with scratches. That makes sense on the surface — nobody wants their new floor torn up by dog nails. But after installing and replacing flooring in hundreds of pet households across the Lehigh Valley and northern New Jersey, we can tell you that scratches are only the third most important factor. The first two? Water resistance and cleanability.
Here's what actually destroys floors in pet households. It's not the scratching — it's the accidents. A puppy being house-trained. An older dog with a weak bladder. A cat with a urinary tract infection. These things happen, and when urine sits on the wrong flooring, the damage is permanent. We pulled up oak hardwood in a Bethlehem home last spring where the family had an aging Labrador. The dog had been having accidents near the back door for about six months. The homeowner cleaned it up every time, but the urine had already soaked through the polyurethane finish and into the wood grain. The boards were stained black in a three-foot radius. The smell was embedded in the wood itself. We had to rip out those boards, treat the subfloor with an enzyme cleaner, and patch in new planks. Total cost for what should have been a simple problem: $2,800.
That's why our first question to pet owners isn't "how big is your dog?" It's "how confident are you that accidents won't happen?" Because the honest answer, for most people, is not very confident. And that changes the entire flooring conversation.
The second factor — cleanability — matters more than people realize. Dog hair, cat dander, tracked-in mud, slobber, the mysterious wet spot you find at 6 AM. Pet households need floors that can be cleaned quickly and thoroughly without special products or techniques. Some flooring types trap pet hair in grooves and texture. Some show every paw print and water mark. Some require specific cleaners that you have to order online. That's all friction, and friction means your floors end up looking dirty even when you clean them regularly.
We've been installing floors across Allentown, Bethlehem, Easton, and towns throughoutBergen County since 2012. Our team of 35+ NWFA and CFI certified professionals has seen every possible combination of pet, flooring type, and outcome. This guide is what we actually tell homeowners during consultations when they have four-legged family members. No hedging, no "it depends." Real recommendations based on real installations.
The #1 Best Floor for Dogs: Luxury Vinyl Plank
We're going to cut straight to it. If you have dogs — especially dogs over 30 pounds — luxury vinyl plank is the best flooring you can install, period. We have installed LVP in well over a thousand homes at this point, and in pet households specifically, nothing else comes close to the combination of durability, water resistance, comfort, and realistic appearance.
But not all LVP is created equal, and the stuff that works for pet owners is not the cheapest option at the big box store. Here's exactly what to look for.
Wear Layer: The Single Most Important Spec
The wear layer is the transparent top coating that protects the printed design layer underneath. It's measured in mils (thousandths of an inch). For a pet household, you need a minimum of 20 mil, and we strongly recommend 28 mil or higher. That sounds like marketing talk, but we have seen the difference firsthand. A family in Easton installed a 12-mil wear layer LVP (budget product from a home improvement store) in their living room. They had two medium-sized mixed breeds. Within 18 months, the wear layer was scratched through in the traffic paths, and the printed design underneath was visibly damaged. They called us to replace it. That $4-per-square-foot "deal" cost them twice because they had to pay for installation a second time.
Compare that to a COREtec Pro Plus installation we did in a Paramus home with a 100-pound German Shepherd and a 60-pound Pit Bull mix. That product has a 28-mil wear layer with a commercial-grade urethane coating. We installed it three years ago. The homeowner sent us photos last month — the floor looks like the day we put it in. Same dogs, same activity level. The difference is entirely in that wear layer thickness.
Rigid Core: SPC vs. WPC for Pet Owners
LVP comes in two core types: stone plastic composite (SPC) and wood plastic composite (WPC). Both work for pet households, but they have different strengths.
SPC is denser and more dent-resistant. If your dog drops a bone on the floor or you have heavy furniture, SPC holds up better. It also handles temperature swings well, which matters if you're installing in a sunroom or near a sliding glass door where your dog goes in and out. Shaw Floorte Pro and COREtec Pro Plus are both SPC products we install regularly.
WPC is slightly softer underfoot and quieter. The wood-foam composite core absorbs more sound, which is noticeable if you have a dog that paces at night or a household with multiple dogs whose nails click on hard surfaces. COREtec Plus (the non-Pro version) and some Mohawk RevWood Plus products use WPC cores. The tradeoff is WPC is a tiny bit more susceptible to denting from heavy impacts.
For most pet owners, we recommend SPC. The dent resistance is worth the slightly firmer feel underfoot. If noise is a major concern — say, you have a bedroom below the main living area and two dogs — then WPC with a quality underlayment is the better call.
The Brands We Actually Install and Trust
We're not paid by any manufacturer. These are simply the products that have performed best in real pet households over the years we've been tracking.
- COREtec Pro Plus: 28-mil wear layer, SPC core, attached cork underlayment. This is our go-to for pet households with large dogs. We've installed it in homes across Allentown and Bethlehem and the callbacks for damage are essentially zero.
- Shaw Floorte Pro Series: 20 to 30 mil wear layer options, SPC core, excellent click-lock system. The color and pattern options are some of the most realistic on the market. A Bergen County family with three cats and a Golden Retriever has had Floorte Pro for four years and it still photographs like new.
- Mohawk RevWood Plus: This is technically a wood composite product, not traditional LVP, but it performs similarly. It has good scratch resistance and a waterproof surface layer. We install it when clients want a slightly different underfoot feel than vinyl — it feels closer to laminate. Good for cat households and homes with smaller dogs.
Installation Details That Matter for Pets
How LVP is installed matters as much as the product itself in a pet household. Two things we do differently for pet owners:
First, seam sealant. Standard LVP installations rely on the click-lock system to keep the seams tight, and in most homes that's fine. But in pet households, we apply a waterproof seam sealant along the joints in high-risk areas — near back doors, in front of water bowls, and in any room where the pet sleeps or tends to have accidents. This prevents urine or water from seeping between planks and reaching the subfloor. It adds about $0.50 per square foot in those areas, and it's the cheapest insurance policy you can buy.
Second, baseboards and transitions. Pets create more moisture at floor edges than most people realize — urine splashes, water bowl overflow, wet paws after coming inside. We caulk the base of all baseboards with a flexible silicone sealant and make sure transitions to other rooms are tight. It takes an extra hour on a typical installation, but it prevents the subfloor damage that causes odor problems down the road.
Tile and Porcelain: Bulletproof but Cold
If scratch resistance and waterproofing are your absolute top priorities and you don't care about warmth underfoot, porcelain tile is technically the most indestructible floor you can put in a pet household. No dog on earth is scratching porcelain tile. Period. Not a Great Dane, not a Mastiff, not a pack of Huskies sprinting across it.
We install a lot of porcelain tile in pet-heavy households, especially in entryways, mudrooms, and laundry rooms where pets come in from outside. A client in Easton has five rescue dogs — yes, five — and we put large-format porcelain tile throughout their entire first floor. That was four years ago. The tile looks identical to the day we installed it. Nothing has scratched it. Nothing has stained it. Urine, mud, water, drool — it all wipes right up.
The downsides are real though, and we don't minimize them.
Tile is cold. In a Pennsylvania winter, walking on tile in bare feet is unpleasant unless you have radiant floor heating underneath, which adds $8 to $12 per square foot to the installation. Your dog might not care, but you will. We've had clients in the Lehigh Valley install tile throughout their main floor and then immediately buy a dozen area rugs because their feet were always cold from October through April.
Tile is also hard on aging pets. Dogs with arthritis or hip dysplasia struggle on tile because there's zero give. Their joints take the full impact of every step, and older dogs can slip on tile surfaces, especially when they are smooth-glazed. If you have a senior dog or a breed prone to joint issues (Labrador Retrievers, German Shepherds, Golden Retrievers), tile as a primary flooring can actually make their mobility problems worse. We've had two different families in Allentown call us to replace tile with LVP specifically because their older dogs were slipping and falling.
Tile is also unforgiving if you drop something. A phone, a glass, a ceramic dog bowl — if it hits tile, it's probably broken. And if you drop something heavy enough, the tile itself can crack. Replacing a single tile means matching the color (hope you saved extras), chiseling out the old one without damaging neighbors, and re-grouting. It's a bigger job than most people expect.
Where Tile Makes Sense for Pet Owners
We recommend tile for pet households in specific rooms rather than whole floors:
- Entryways and mudrooms: This is where dirty paws, wet fur, and tracked mud hit first. Tile handles all of it and hoses down easily.
- Laundry rooms: Often doubles as the pet washing station. Tile with a floor drain is ideal.
- Feeding areas: Some clients tile just the area around the dog's food and water bowls. Smart move — that zone sees constant water spillage.
For the rest of the house, LVP gives you better comfort, warmer feel, and 90% of the practical benefits. We've done a lot of "tile in the entry, LVP everywhere else" installations across Bergen County and the Lehigh Valley. It's a great combination for pet households.
Can You Have Hardwood With Pets? (Yes, With Caveats)
This is the question we get most often, and we refuse to give the easy answer. The easy answer is "just get LVP." But the honest answer is more nuanced. You absolutely can have hardwood floors with dogs and cats. Millions of people do. But you need to go in with your eyes open about what that means.
We install hardwood flooring in pet households regularly. We did a beautiful 1,500-square-foot hickory installation in a Bethlehem home last fall — the family has two Vizslas and a cat. Six months in, the floors look fantastic. But that family also keeps their dogs' nails trimmed every two weeks, has area rugs in the main traffic paths, and chose every spec specifically for pet resistance. That's the difference between hardwood that holds up with pets and hardwood that looks trashed after two years.
Species Selection: The Janka Hardness Scale Actually Matters
The Janka hardness test measures how much force it takes to embed a steel ball into wood. Higher numbers mean harder wood, which means better scratch resistance. Here's what that looks like in practice for pet owners:
- Hickory (1,820 Janka): Our top recommendation for dog owners who want hardwood. It's the hardest common domestic species, and the natural grain variation hides minor scratches well. We installed hickory in a Nazareth home with a 90-pound Labrador and after two years, the scratching is minimal and barely visible.
- White Oak (1,360 Janka): The most popular hardwood species overall, and a decent choice for pet owners. It will scratch more than hickory, but white oak's prominent grain pattern helps camouflage light surface marks. This is what we install most often across the Lehigh Valley.
- Red Oak (1,290 Janka): Slightly softer than white oak and more open-grained, which means scratches show more. We don't recommend red oak for dog owners. It's fine for cat-only households.
- Pine, Walnut, Cherry (600 to 1,010 Janka): Beautiful woods. Terrible for dogs. We had a client in Allentown who insisted on walnut because they loved the color. We installed it, explained the risk, and got a call 14 months later for a full refinish. Their 50-pound mixed breed had scratched the living room floor so badly it looked like someone had taken steel wool to it. We will install these species if a client insists, but we document our recommendation against it for pet households.
Finish Matters More Than Species
Here's something that surprises most homeowners: the finish on your hardwood matters as much as the wood species itself when it comes to pet performance.
Wire-brushed and hand-scraped textures are your best friends in a pet household. These finishes intentionally create surface variation that camouflages minor scratches. A light scratch that would be glaringly obvious on a smooth, high-gloss floor disappears into the texture of a wire-brushed plank. We've been steering pet owners toward wire-brushed white oak for three years now, and the satisfaction rate is extremely high.
Matte and satin finishes hide scratches far better than semi-gloss or high-gloss. A glossy floor reflects light off the surface, and every single scratch catches that light. Matte finishes diffuse light, making scratches much less visible. We refinished a floor in an Easton home that had been high-gloss with two dogs — scratches everywhere. Same floor, same wood, re-sanded and finished with a matte polyurethane. The homeowner said it was like getting a new floor. The dogs hadn't changed, but the scratch visibility dropped by about 80%.
Hardwax oil finishes (like Rubio Monocoat) are increasingly popular with pet owners because they allow spot repairs. If your dog scratches a section, you can lightly sand just that area and reapply the oil — no need to refinish the entire floor. You can't do that with polyurethane. The tradeoff is that hardwax oil needs more frequent maintenance overall (reapplication every 1 to 2 years in high-traffic areas), but for pet owners who want real hardwood, the spot-repair ability is a big advantage.
Engineered vs. Solid for Pet Households
For pet owners specifically, we generally recommend engineered hardwood over solid for one main reason: dimensional stability. Engineered hardwood's plywood core is less affected by the humidity swings and occasional moisture that come with pet ownership. A water bowl that overflows, wet paws from outside, a cleaned-up accident that left some moisture behind — engineered hardwood handles these better than solid. It won't gap or cup as readily.
The tradeoff is that engineered hardwood has a thinner wear layer (typically 2 to 4mm of real wood on top), which means fewer refinishing cycles — usually one to two times over the floor's life instead of three to five for solid. In a pet household where you might need to refinish more frequently, that's a meaningful consideration. Our compromise recommendation: choose engineered hardwood with at least a 3mm wear layer so you get the stability benefit plus at least one good refinish when the time comes. Check out our refinishing vs. replacing guide for more on when that makes sense.
The Floors We Tell Pet Owners to Avoid
We believe in being straight with people. There are flooring types that will cause problems in pet households, and we'd rather you know that before you spend thousands of dollars, not after. Here's what we steer pet owners away from and why.
Bamboo (Especially Strand-Woven)
This one surprises people because bamboo is often marketed as "harder than hardwood." And strand-woven bamboo does have a high Janka rating — around 3,000 or higher. But hardness and scratch resistance are not the same thing. Bamboo scratches differently than hardwood. The fibers tend to splinter and flake rather than dent, creating light-colored scratches that stand out starkly against the darker tones most bamboo comes in. We installed strand-woven bamboo in a Bethlehem townhouse about five years ago for a couple with a medium-sized Boxer. Within a year, the hallway and living room had visible scratch marks that couldn't be buffed out. The bamboo also reacts poorly to urine — the moisture causes the fibers to swell and discolor more dramatically than traditional hardwood.
Laminate Without Water Resistance
Basic laminate flooring has an MDF (medium-density fiberboard) core. When that core gets wet, it swells irreversibly. It doesn't dry out and go back to normal — it stays swollen and the planks warp, bubble, and eventually disintegrate. In a pet household, moisture is constant: water bowls, wet paws, accidents. Standard laminate is a ticking time bomb.
Now, there are water-resistant laminate products on the market (Mohawk RevWood Plus being one of them) that have treated cores and sealed edges. These perform much better. But if someone is choosing between water-resistant laminate and LVP at a similar price point, we push them toward LVP every time. The waterproofing is more complete, and you don't have to worry about edge seals wearing down over time.
High-Gloss Anything
We mentioned this in the hardwood section, but it applies across all flooring types. High-gloss LVP, high-gloss laminate, high-gloss hardwood — all of them show every scratch, every paw print, every water spot, every hair. A family in Paramus called us to replace high-gloss laminate that was only two years old. The surface was fine structurally, but it looked terrible because every micro-scratch from their cat's paws was visible in certain light. They switched to a matte-finish LVP and the difference was night and day. If you have pets, stay away from gloss.
Soft Woods (Pine, Fir, Cedar)
These are beautiful in cabins and farmhouses, and they're a disaster with dogs. Pine is around 690 on the Janka scale. A medium-sized dog doesn't even need to run — just walking across pine with normal nails leaves marks. We refinished a pine floor in a historic Allentown home last year. The homeowner had a Beagle — just one, about 25 pounds. The floor was so scratched and dented after three years that it needed a full resand, not just a screen and recoat. If you have historic pine floors and a dog, use area rugs generously and accept that the patina is part of the character, or invest in a harder species when it's time to replace.
Carpet (With a Caveat)
We're not saying carpet is always wrong for pet owners — it's warm, quiet, comfortable, and dogs love lying on it. But it traps odor. If your pet has an accident on carpet, you can clean the surface, but the urine often reaches the pad underneath, and once it's in the pad, it's there for good unless you replace both carpet and pad. Pet hair also embeds in carpet fibers and is never fully removed by vacuuming.
If you want carpet in a pet household, we recommend it only in bedrooms where pets spend limited time, and we suggest a low-pile, stain-resistant fiber like solution-dyed nylon. Our carpet installation page has more details. For any room where your pet spends significant time, hard-surface flooring is the practical choice.
Scratch Resistance: What Actually Matters
Everyone asks about scratch resistance, so let's break it down properly. There's a lot of marketing noise around this topic, and the numbers manufacturers throw around can be misleading if you don't understand what they mean.
Understanding the Specs
For LVP, the wear layer thickness (measured in mils) is the primary indicator of scratch resistance. But it's not the only one. The type of coating on top of the wear layer matters enormously. Look for "enhanced urethane" or "ceramic bead" coatings — these are harder than standard urethane and resist pet nail scratches significantly better. COREtec's upper-tier products use a ceramic bead coating that we've found outperforms thicker wear layers without it. A 20-mil wear layer with ceramic beads can outperform a 28-mil layer without it.
For laminate, the AC rating system ranges from AC1 (lightest residential use) to AC5 (heavy commercial). For pet households, we don't install anything below AC4. The AC rating is tested with standardized abrasion tests that are actually a pretty good predictor of real-world scratch performance. Mohawk RevWood Plus is rated AC5, which is one reason we recommend it for pet owners who prefer laminate.
For hardwood, the Janka hardness test measures dent resistance, not scratch resistance specifically. A harder wood resists scratches better, but the relationship is not linear. Finish type, grain pattern, and surface texture all play equal roles. That's why a wire-brushed white oak (Janka 1,360) can look better after two years with a dog than a smooth-finished hickory (Janka 1,820) — the texture hides what the hardness prevented.
Real-World Scratch Performance by Flooring Type
Based on our experience installing and following up on projects across the Lehigh Valley and northern NJ, here's how different flooring types actually perform with pet scratching over a 3-year window:
| Flooring Type | Scratch Visibility After 3 Years (Large Dog) | Repairability |
|---|---|---|
| Porcelain Tile | None visible | Replace individual tiles |
| LVP (28 mil, ceramic bead) | Minimal — only under close inspection | Replace individual planks |
| LVP (20 mil, standard urethane) | Light scratches in traffic paths | Replace individual planks |
| Hickory Hardwood (wire-brushed, matte) | Light scratches, mostly hidden by texture | Sand and refinish |
| White Oak Hardwood (smooth, satin) | Moderate scratches visible in traffic paths | Sand and refinish |
| Laminate (AC4+) | Light to moderate scratches | Replace individual planks only |
| Pine / Soft Hardwood | Heavy scratching throughout | Sand and refinish (frequent) |
| Bamboo (strand-woven) | Moderate, with visible flaking | Limited — sanding is unpredictable |
The Nail Trim Factor
We cannot overstate this: regular nail trimming is the single most effective thing you can do to protect any floor from pet scratches. It's more impactful than the flooring type, the wear layer, or the finish. A 60-pound dog with trimmed nails will do less damage to a pine floor than a 30-pound dog with long nails will do to hickory. We tell every pet-owning client the same thing: trim nails every two to three weeks or use a nail grinder. It's the cheapest floor protection available.
The second most effective protection is area rugs and runners in high-traffic zones. The spots where your dog runs to the door, the path from the kitchen to the living room, the area in front of the couch where they jump on and off — put rugs there. We recommend rugs with non-slip pads underneath (never rubber-backed rugs directly on hardwood — they trap moisture and can discolor the finish over time).
Our Room-by-Room Recommendations for Pet Households
Every pet household is different, but after thousands of installations, patterns emerge. Here's the framework we use during consultations to help pet owners make room-by-room decisions. This is the same advice we give in person to families across Allentown, Bethlehem, Easton, Paramus, and throughout Bergen County.
Main Living Area (Living Room, Great Room, Open-Concept Spaces)
Our pick: Premium LVP (28-mil wear layer, SPC core) or wire-brushed hardwood (hickory or white oak).
This is where your pets spend most of their time, so it takes the most abuse. LVP is the practical choice — waterproof, scratch-resistant, easy to clean. But we understand that many homeowners want real wood in their main living area. If that's you, go with hickory or white oak, wire-brushed finish, matte polyurethane or hardwax oil. Add area rugs in the main traffic paths and where the dog tends to lie down (their claws dig in when they stand up from lying position — that's where we see the most scratching).
We did a split approach in an Allentown home last year that worked beautifully. The homeowners wanted hardwood for their dining and living room but had two active Border Collies. We installed 5-inch wire-brushed white oak with Rubio Monocoat finish in the dining and living areas, then transitioned to COREtec Pro Plus LVP in the family room and kitchen where the dogs spend most of their time. The two products were close enough in color and plank width that the transition looks intentional, and each room has the right floor for how it's used.
Kitchen
Our pick: LVP, no question.
Kitchens in pet households see water bowl overflow, food spills, wet paws from outside, and the constant traffic of a dog following you from the stove to the fridge to the counter. Add in the risk of dishwasher leaks and sink splashes, and water resistance becomes non-negotiable. We pull up water-damaged hardwood and laminate from kitchens regularly — in pet households, the damage happens faster because there's more moisture hitting the floor more often. LVP handles all of it without flinching. For the full breakdown on kitchen flooring, check out our best flooring for wet areas guide.
Entryway and Mudroom
Our pick: Porcelain tile or LVP.
This is ground zero for mud, water, road salt, and debris from pets coming in from outside. Tile is the ultimate here — it's impervious to everything. If you have multiple large dogs and a yard, tile in the entryway saves you from dealing with constant moisture and dirt on whatever flooring is in the adjacent rooms. LVP is the alternative if you want a warmer feel or want to match the rest of the first floor. Either way, we recommend a good floor mat (not a thin rug — an actual mat that traps water and debris) at the exterior door.
Bedrooms
Our pick: Hardwood, LVP, or even carpet with caveats.
If your pets don't sleep in the bedroom, any flooring works. If they do, LVP is the easiest to maintain. Hardwood is fine if scratching is under control with nail trims and an area rug at the foot of the bed. Some pet owners still want carpet in bedrooms for warmth and softness — if that's you, choose a low-pile, stain-resistant nylon and accept that you'll need to vacuum more frequently and deep-clean annually. Avoid loop-pile carpet entirely if you have cats — they will pull loops and create snags.
Basement
Our pick: LVP only.
Below-grade spaces in Pennsylvania and New Jersey have moisture migration through concrete year-round. Adding pet-related moisture on top of that makes anything other than LVP a bad bet. We've finished dozens of basements in the Lehigh Valley for families who want a dedicated "dog room" or play area. LVP over a proper moisture barrier is the standard, and it performs perfectly. These spaces are also easy to clean when a pet has an accident because there's no concern about water damage to the flooring.
Bathroom
Our pick: Tile or LVP. Never hardwood.
Most pets don't spend significant time in bathrooms, so this is less of a pet flooring decision and more of a standard wet-area decision. If your dog's bed is in the bathroom (we see this sometimes) or you bathe your dog in the tub regularly, tile is the best option. For half-baths and powder rooms, LVP is perfectly fine. Just never hardwood in any bathroom, regardless of pet status.
Stairs
Our pick: Hardwood (hickory or oak) with a carpet runner, or LVP with proper nosing.
Stairs deserve special mention because pets slip on them, and a fall down the stairs can cause serious injury to a dog. Smooth hardwood stairs are slippery. Smooth LVP stairs are slippery. The solution is a carpet runner down the center of the stairs with proper adhesion (not loose — that's a tripping hazard for humans). This gives your pet traction while protecting the stair treads from nail scratches in the highest-traffic zone. We install stair nosing in either hardwood or LVP with a slip-resistant texture, and a carpet runner makes a huge difference for pet safety and floor preservation.
| Room | Best for Dogs | Best for Cats | Avoid |
|---|---|---|---|
| Living Room | LVP or wire-brushed hardwood | Any hardwood or LVP | High-gloss, soft woods |
| Kitchen | LVP | LVP | Hardwood, laminate |
| Entryway | Tile or LVP | Any hard surface | Carpet, hardwood |
| Bedroom | LVP or hardwood with rugs | Any | Loop-pile carpet (cats) |
| Basement | LVP only | LVP only | Hardwood, laminate, carpet |
| Bathroom | Tile or LVP | Tile or LVP | Hardwood |
| Stairs | Hardwood + runner | Hardwood or LVP | Smooth tile |
Let Us Help You Choose the Right Floor for Your Pets
Every pet household is different. The size and breed of your animals, their age, whether they're house-trained, how many you have, which rooms they access — all of it matters when choosing flooring. We've been installing floors in homes with dogs and cats across the Lehigh Valley and northern New Jersey since 2012. We know what works, what fails, and what falls in between.
When you schedule a consultation with us, we'll look at your space, ask about your pets (yes, we want to know their names and see pictures), and give you a straight recommendation — not a sales pitch. We'll show you actual samples and tell you exactly how each one performs in real pet households. That's the benefit of working with a company whose installers have NWFA and CFI certifications and have collectively seen thousands of pet-and-flooring combinations.
Check out our luxury vinyl plank installation, hardwood installation, and tile installation services for details on what we offer. Or if you're ready, just reach out for a free estimate. We typically respond the same day, and we'll never pressure you into a decision. Your floors need to work for everyone in the household — two-legged and four-legged alike.
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